Wednesday, February 8, 2012

I'm Coming Home!

Hello everyone! Internet connectivity has been quite poor the last couple days from my hotel. I am writing you on my last full day in Chile before flying home. I've been traveling now for almost four weeks! Tomorrow morning I am taking a bus from Pucon to Valdivia. I will spend the day there until my evening flight. It is a 25 hour journey home. I have had a great time here in Pucon with Mercedes. It is fun working with her and it was so nice meeting her family.

Pucon is a crazy town right now. It is party central. There are teenagers everywhere and young families. The beaches are crowded with umbrellas and the sidewalks are packed with window shoppers and people eating out. It is a little much for me. I love the setting of Pucon. It is surrounded by mountains, big lakes, and national parks. The rivers are ready for rafting and kayaking. The recreational opportunities are endless. I like that. The town is nestled a little too close for comfort for me next to Volcan Villarrica, Chile's most active volcano, but it has been safe since the 1970s so the odds are potentially good between now and when I leave that the steady stream of smoke coming from the top will stay as it is. I would definitely come back here in either December or January, but not during this crazy month of February. There are just too many people, unless you plan to spend most of your time outside of town.

I did get a chance to sit on the beach today. I was soaking up the sun before I return to winter! I counted, in about four to five months we will be getting weather like this in Washington! The sun was warm today. I think I may be coming home with a little bit of a tan and I loved feeling the warm breeze on my skin. I ate out twice today. For lunch I had ceviche and for dinner a traditional Chilean casserole dish made with creamed corn, ground beef, chicken, basil, and olives. I will miss the good food I've tried along the way!

My bags are packed and I am ready to go. South America is an amazing country and so big to explore! I love the diversity of plant and animal life, the warm weather, and the wonderful people I've met along the way, but I am also looking forward to being a home body for awhile now!

Thanks for following my blog with me on my travels! Here are a few more pictures to share. Chao!

Above: Volcan Felafel House (the name I've given it). A small cafe downtown.

Above: A view of Pucon from a street downtown.

Above: Villarrica Lake during sunset. It is home to many boats and jet skis during the summer!

Above: My coworker's daughter's puppy Kila. She was so sleepy, I moved her to this position and she stayed like this without waking up. She is the happiest puppy.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Parque Nacional Huerquehue: A Jurassic Experience

Parque Nacional Huerquehue may not be big in size (30,000 acres), but it is home to some of the Chile's oldest and respected trees. Araucaria trees (Monkey Puzzle) are evergreens and at their tallest can grow up to 250 feet. They have thick branches and cones. The seeds from the female cones are suppose to be delicious, though I've never tried them. I've heard people in Chile say they have made jam from the seeds. It must be wonderful! The araucaria trees have a restricted distribution, mostly growing at higher elevations in the temperate forests of Chile. These columnar trees are also living fossils, dating back to early in the Mesozoic age. Some of the trees I saw today, likely have lived over 1,000 years!

The araucaria tree also has great social and cultural significance to this region. The seeds are an important part of the Pehuenche indigenous people's diet. The characteristic forests are unique and beautiful and are emblems of the national parks and provinces in Chile and Argentina. These forests were quite a site to see!

I caught a morning bus from Pucon to the National Park headquarters, which was a small building with enough room to allow visitors in to charge an entrance fee. I was given a map and then I stepped outside. I had to really orient myself to the area before setting forth, but the trails were well marked and many people from the bus began hiking the same trail along with me. The trail started off through campsites and some agricultural land, but then quickly turned to dense forest of coigue trees. The trail climbed steeply through the forest and I had to take many breaks! I'm calling this my first hike of the season! The destination was a basin with many lakes, three of which the trail took a loop around. After reaching the first lake, I got my first view of the araucaria trees!

I noticed many treasures along the way including waterfowl, lizards, wildflowers, bamboo, trees, and much more! I meandered along the trail getting more glimpses of this wondrous landscape at every turn. I met some hiking companions on different portions of the trail, including two young woman from France and a man from Hong Kong. For lunch, I spent an hour relaxing along the shores of Lago Toro, a beautiful blue mountain lake. Meanwhile, birds I've never heard before were chirping and making a racket. I had a really good time!

Below are some photos of the treasures I found along my way!

Above: Araucaria trees were thriving at every turn in Parque Nacional Huerquehue.

Above: A close up of an Araucaria branch.

Above: A view from the shores of Lago Toro. This was one of my favorite perspectives.

Above: Vibrant and healthy chilco (fuschia) plants were growing everywhere!

Above: I found these beauties in only one spot. I love them.

Above: This small lizard reminded me of the geckos I've seen in Hawaii as a kid.

Above: The top of an arucaria. The shape reminds me of a bulb or a mushroom top. They each grown at different levels to create a very unique canopy.

Above: A glimpse at the temperate forest I spent much of the day walking through.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

It's Summer in Pucón

How can I tell? People are everywhere. Cars are everywhere. Events are happening. The shops are full, the restaurants busy, and the sun is always shining. The highlight of my day was spending it with my Nature Conservancy GIS South American counterpart, whom I have been filling in for during her five month maternity leave from work. This is only the second time I've met her. The first was when I took my trip to Santiago, Chile last August. After spending about three hours walking along the lake shore, window shopping, and trying to find a guided tour for my Sunday adventure this afternoon, I was invited to a BBQ with my coworker's family and friends. I accepted of course, and they picked me up at the hotel.

We drove about 10 km outside of town to a small property by a gorgeous river. We crossed the narrow suspension bridge you see in the above picture, by car! It is hard to believe a car can fit on that thing. Mercedes was telling me on our way that it is traditional to have a BBQ once the frame of a new house is built. She said in Chile there is always a reason to celebrate something. As it turns out, the people who are building the house are actually building six cabins next to this river and plan to start up a river kayaking business where people spend the day kayaking down the cascading river and, once finished, relax at the cabins. All I can say is, the setting was amazing! At the property we bordered a national park and the hills of the mountain next to us rose above the landscape so quickly it was hard to grasp. On every square meter, trees were growing from it. Even rock cliffs were somehow full of trees. On the other side of the river where we were siting, I could also see the top of Volcan Villarrica and the steam raising up from its crater. I stood on a series of decks they had built right next to the river and felt like I was in a tree house, every which way I looked was a jungle of green life. Many places on my trip so far have reminded me of Washington in some way, but now that I am closer to the national parks in the Andes Mountains, I can surely say I have never seen anything like what I saw today, and tomorrow is just going to get better.

Back to BBQ talk, however. When I first arrived I was offered a fanchop, which I quickly learned is a very popular Chilean mixed drink. To my surprise or horror, I can't decide which, someone poured me Fanta orange soda mixed with light beer in a wine glass! After one sip, I admit it wasn't horrible, but I think it is because I could hardly taste the beer. I can guarantee this isn't a habit I'd pick up and bring home with me... unless you all are curious and want to try it with me!??

I met some really wonderful people there. Most of them could speak a little English and were practicing because they wanted to improve their language for this business they were starting. Most of them are ski instructors from Santiago, that have decided to take a go at starting a seasonal summer business. We had barbequed beef and chicken and lettuce tossed in lemon juice and olive oil. Throughout my traveling and eating in South America, very little emphasis is put on salad dressing. In fact, I see no salad dressing sold at grocery stores. A little lemon juice or balsamic vinegar is all they really use. And they have really yummy lemons here. We also had a potato salad and a traditional Chilean onion, tomato, and cilantro salad that had been marinated in what I am guessing is more lemon juice! It was all really delicious. It was also fun meeting local people and participating in local culture.

Mercedes has a six year old daughter in addition to her new born. Both are really cute. For their six year old, they bought a two month old golden retriever. It took its first ride in the back of their pick up truck today, which wasn't a pretty sight after arriving at our destination. It lost bodily fluids from both ends, poor thing. But when it jumped out of the truck, she was off wagging her tail like nothing in the world ever happened. I also got to see her take her first swim ever. On the way home, the six year old was signing in English to the Jason Maraz song, I'm Yours. She doesn't understand English, but she knew every word and she sang the song once, twice, three times! At the end of the car ride she gave me a chocolate volcano, a little cookie filled with dulce de leche covered in chocolate. Yum!

Of course you are all going to be mad at me because I didn't bring my camera to the BBQ! I had to switch gears pretty fast this afternoon between getting back to my hotel room and being ready to go, so it was one of those times where I was outside and realized I didn't have time to run back into the hotel to grab it! But, I do plan on taking it with me tomorrow.

Before I went to the BBQ this afternoon, I tried to go to at least four places to schedule a tour for Sunday. I had so many options between rafting, canopy carabining, horseback riding, going to the hot springs, climbing the volcano, etc, etc, etc. It was a bit overwhelming, mostly because I want to do it all! But I determined what I want to do most is go to the national park to see the ancient araucaria trees. Of course, no one takes guided tours there because the national parks are suppose to be really easy to get to by bus and are not that far outside of town. At the barbeque I met a German student who told me how to get there and back. She said it was safe and lots of people go there. So, tomorrow morning I am going to take a bus from Pucon to Parque Nacional Huerquehue where I am going to hike on the las lagos trail.

The bus leaves at 8:30 am in the morning and will take me directly to the park. There is a ranger station at the park where they give you maps and information. So the main thing will be making sure I am back to the bus by the afternoon to come home! But I will figure that all out once I get there. I'm excited to share the photos from my day trip, as long as I make that morning bus!

Photo credit: Travel Approved

Living at the Base of a Volcano

Yesterday I left Argentina and spent most of the day on a bus to Chile. I had to cross an international border again. It's a bit of a process. We had to make one stop in Argentina to exit the country. Once we crossed the border on a mountain summit covered in ash, we began to descend in elevation and then came to the next immigration control center in Chile. Each time we had to wait for tour buses ahead of us to unload all their passengers in this process, and once they were cleared it was our turn. It was a nice day with nice scenery for traveling. My bus ride took me to Osorno, Chile where I switched buses. I originally thought I'd have to wait two hours before my next bus came, but the first bus was late and arrived 30 minutes before the other. I had only a half hour before I spotted my bus and I was on my way to Pucon, the last big destination of my trip.

The ride into Pucon was beautiful. The way was heavily forested with broad areas open to mostly pasture. We journeyed through a big floodplain and we crossed over many rivers. When the bus arrived in the small town of Villarrica, I almost got off thinking we were in Pucon! Glad I didn't. The rest of drive was along Villarrica Lake, which was beautiful. In some ways it reminded me of my days along Lake Whatcom in Bellingham, WA! Pucon sits on the east end of this giant lake under Volcan Villarrica, which I hear is one of Chile's most active volcanoes! Tours are led to the summit everyday. It is a 9,341 feet high volcano and is a perfect triangle. I am hoping to get some good pictures of it while I am here!

This morning I slept in, which was really nice for a change. I had breakfast at the hotel already. Last night I wondered around the town watching all the tourists and townspeople eating dinner and shopping. This area is a major hub for adventure touring in Chile. It is a base for rafting trips, trekking, horseback riding, sailing, and swimming. There is much to do here! I am going to wonder around this afternoon and see if I can find myself an adventure of my own to go on tomorrow! I really want to see an araucaria (monkey puzzle tree) forest growing like crazy in the wild!

Photo credit: I did not take the above photo, it was found online here.